The big troubles of "small Switzerland".
The big troubles of "small Switzerland".
Dmitrys SIMEONS.
The North Caucasus - a zone of vital interests of Russia. Today
Here it is difficult to find at least one rather safe
Republic. Confrontations, international slaughter,
Universal poverty - here destiny of the people of the North Caucasus. At
The federal centre this region of a hand reach only then,
When on a nose - the next elections. And in the meantime the North Caucasus
As a matter of fact lives under own laws, on the - unwritten
- Constitutions.
It agree with Vladimir Semenovichem Vysotsky: "Elbrus and with
The plane it is visible fine ". A stately snow-white two-headed cap
Metres on 600 towers over the Caucasian ridge, over Kazbek and
Other tops. Over the bottom level of clouds. This the lowermost
Level is defined easily: it not white, it black is steljutsja
Products of burning of petrochinks in the Chechen Republic.
Last week the group of the Russian journalists has spent four
Day in the North Caucasus. In spite of the fact that we flied to one of
Few not at war republics, both adventures, and impressions
Has sufficed it is a lot of. Sometimes even it would be desirable, that the second was
A little it is less...
Pejzane in the open air.
I was not in Ingushetia of years five. For this time in republic very much
Much has changed. For example, the settlement the Worker was again
It is renamed in Karabulak. The number of refugees has grown in 10 times. Was
There is begun building of new capital - Magasa, on Kazakhstan
To the scenario, in an open country. All the rest remains former -
The president, its environment, a standard of living of simple Ingushs.
Someone from the Russian politicians, having visited Nazran, has named
Ingushetia "small Switzerland". Local residents - "natives",
As they themselves name - from such comparison jars on, though
They never in the Alpes were. Around - own mountains. For
Mountains, on the one hand, smokes of fires of the ruined Chechen Republic, with another
- The semihostile North Ossetia... Certainly, on a place - it
More visibly.
After 1994 in Nazran it has been arranged
"Model settlement". On the bank of lake - in my opinion,
Man-made - the whole cottage settlement constructed (has grown for
Refugees from the Suburb) foreign workers. Good
Settlement. Extreme two cottages are occupied with family Ruslana of Aushev,
The president of local "Switzerland". On other coast - hotel "п я я п ",
Unique in republic. If not to leave for limits of it
Pocket world, Ingushetia is quite similar to any of the Swiss
Cantons. But here if to drive off hardly far away...
... And to Nazran us have not started up. The staff of the Union of Right Forces which has organised these
Trip, has informed on visit of journalists to local authorities, and reaction
Has followed immediately. Within the limits of operation "Whirlwind-anti-terror"
All Ingush branch of Union of Right Forces has been arrested, and journalists was
veleno "not pushchat". However, writing and removing brotherhood
It was considerably reduced: to many colleagues from the democratic
Editions on the eve of flying away people from the Ministry of Internal Affairs of Ingushetia "called" and
Advised not to go. Eight known boldness
Correspondents and have arrived. The others of the decision not
Have changed, but have learnt, that Nazran - is more correct, the airport in Sleptsovsky
- Them does not accept.
So flied through Vladikavkaz. From here, from capital Northern
Ossetias, all is close. Both Nazran, and Grozny, both Tbilisi, and Sukhumi -
Taxi drivers on the area will bring anywhere. And the more terribly this
Discord: peace, in appearance such safe Ossetia - and thousand
Refugees...
The first camp. A Chermensky crossroads. Here us have passed.
"Ikarus" has slowly crept on territory of Ingushetia through passes in
Difficult labyrinth of the steel pipes, protected by submachine gunners. In
To one hundred metres from here, at settlement May, in hovels and sheds here
Already almost eight years live the Ingush families - those who after November
1992 ran from Vladikavkaz and the Suburb. After that
As was artificial razdut the osetino-Ingush conflict.
In Ingushetia till now consider, that these events were attempt
To get involved in the conflict the Chechen Republic, that, having used it, already then
To punish rebellious republic. To a local anathema hardly probable not
Daily, three surnames - Burbulis ("a Satan not hourly indulge
It, yours Burbulis! "), Gaydar and SHahraj. Hardly remember Aushev less often and
Dzasokhov.
The first - that cannot solve eight years in any way
Problem: some refugees, that live in "not resolved"
Camps, even as citizens of Ingushetia do not recognise! The second - for that,
That, as consider in Ingushetia many, it is artificial podpityvaet
Hatred the Ossetin to Ingushs. Someone tried to return - their houses
Have been blown up...
In camp of full children who were born already here, on the earth, which
Nobody considers as the native land.
"We want home, in the Suburb!" - such is a leitmotif
Claims. In journalists here see both an outlet, and last
Instance: and suddenly will help? As here there live people, not clearly. Money
At them is not present - shabashat on buildings, women are employed to work in
Field. The children's grant do not pay the third year...
- What for you so much children narozhali, time so badly is? -
The question has simply slipped out.
- We cannot go against customs! - the answer was such.
To be equipped on a new place wants nobody: want home, in
Suburb villages, each of which carries the Ingush
The name. Oh this Stalin decision on deportation!.
For local administration refugees - a constant convenient
Feeding trough. Here only money from the state budget goes, apparently, on
Absolutely other purposes.
Ah, what was the man!.
No, Aushev, of course, any more the colonel. The general. Zone it
The portrait in all regalia hangs in each official office. To
"In public selected" in Ingushetia the relation, to put it mildly,
The polar.
- You necessarily write: Aushev - a screen. Correct here
Gutserievy. Them here a family whole. The country buy up! Oil business,
Filling stations, trade - all under them goes! Now here
Tobacco factory build!.
- At Aushev - heard? - Several years ago the brother have killed,
Rashida. So it Rashid with Chechens also was organised by this business with
Kidnappings, and with Chechens to share has not wanted. They it and
Have banged. And Rashida Aushev's name now stadium have named...
Similar it is possible to hear simply in the street. As soon as someone
You from the newspaper, from the Moscow learn, that, the information begins
To flow a mountain stream!
We soon could be convinced of omnipotence Gutserievyh on the personal
Experience. On one of posts on border of the North Ossetia and
Ingushetia our caravan has risen: militian ranks have referred on
The order of the Minister of Internal Affairs of republic (too Gutseriev):
Journalists to Ingushetia not to start up!
However, the double relation to Gutseriev has helped just.
By buses - it is impossible, on foot - it is possible. So border crossed
On shank's mare. Buses have caught up with us later.
... At a circular crossroads - a huge board-index:
"Building of capital of Ingushetia Magas. It is begun in 1995".
Poor republic in which all manufacture has died practically,
Living on budgetary grants - builds from zero the capital!
The basis - Nazran is located geopoliticheski is unprofitable. A place
For construction Magasa it is chosen not less "successfully" - to border
In total some kilometres.
We very much wished to meet the president. And it with us very much
Did not want. Therefore "Ikarusy" again tormoznuli - on entrance on
"A federal line" Nazran - Magas. However, to get on a visit to
Ruslanu Sultanovichu it has appeared simply: some kilometres on
To first coat on "Zhigulis", scaring away cows. In several hundreds
Metres militian "nine" more low grew white.
- Aha! Have not guessed, goats! - our driver gloated over. - to it
Gutseriev, probably, the order has given all roads to block! And all - not
You will block!
Precisely - you will not block. Minutes through five legkovushka has jumped out
On asphalt and on a counter strip has rushed to Magasu. Having understood, that
The plan "Interception" is not has gone right, "zapretiteli" a cordon have removed: soon in
Ingush "Nju-Vasjuki" profits and our buses...
Picture, I will report on you! In the middle of the field which have grown with a tall weeds - two
Apartment houses in the course of completion. Something nearby grows semi-official.
In kilometre on the sun three domes - the government House, the House shine
Parliament and the Palace of the president.
Aushev has not accepted all of us, naturally. Instead of it
The head had short conversation with correspondents
Governmental body of Ingushetia. Polite Magomed Ibragimovich
Behaviour of local militian ranks long explained that about
Visit nobody knew. And in the country - "Whirlwind-anti-terror". So,
Understand... Then suddenly has casually blabbed out - letters were
Are received in all instances.
Meetings at all levels have been promised. Has taken place - one: with
The head of the local Ministry of Emergency Measures. But about it later. As to refusal from
Dialogue with the press of Mr. Aushev... It appears, the president
Has attentively seen the list of the visitors, familiar surnames in him not
Has found, that is why has decided what to meet there is no need.
Probably, is what to hide from press Ruslanu Sultanovichu.
By the way, about impressions. It would not be desirable to draw analogies, but,
It seems, Aushev new Joseph thinks itself. Which Vissarionovich. In
Style "a-lja Stalin" internal rooms of the House are sustained
The governments. Here only money, it is probably, poorly. That is why
The furniture has turned out frankly cheap. As well as dictatorship of the local
The general.
Certainly, if to look Ingush GTRK, Aushev - most
The liked. It is literally - the tsar and the god. Here, in Ingushetia, it can
All. For example, to give local TV-aether to Maskhadov and Basayev.
To receive from heads of sovereign Ichkeria the nominal weapon.
In every possible way to support on elections in the State Duma of the protege -
Alihana Amirhanova.
Court yes business.
By the way, about the cancelled elections on July, 2nd.
We managed to meet with Patimat Buzurtanovoj, the public prosecutor
Ingushetia. The person who has stopped elections.
There was it from the realised permissiveness of the authorities.
Pre-election campaign Amirhanova was conducted with so scandalous
Infringements, it was so frankly supported by the president, that
Remarks should get to Office of Public Prosecutor.
Patimat fairly admitted, that it would not like to contact
This business. Therefore it is business - have simply closed.
However messages on infringements - already about payoff
Voters - continued to arrive. And the local Central Electoral Committee is literally
Has forced Buzurtanovu business to consider. It also has considered. I.
Has taken out an unexpected verdict for all: to delete Amirhanova from
Lists!
Elections have cancelled.
And life Patimat has turned to a nightmare: to it threaten on
To phone, its person daily - and after all already almost two months
Has passed! - it will be worn on TV. The husband of the public prosecutor has given up job: now it
Itself carries the wife - both the driver, and the bodyguard.
Veshnjakov has pretended, that has occurred nothing. Perhaps, and
The truth - anything?.
And a life - copeck?
I can not understand, whence in republic cash! The markets -
It is a lot of. Shops and little shops, cafe and small restaurants are multiplied, as
Mushrooms after a rain. And manufacture dies in the meantime.
Anyway it is difficult to name any enterprises, except
asfaltobetonnyh factories, factory mineral - and, by the way,
Very good - waters in the city of Achaluki. Well and spheres of services. However,
As have told torgovki on the improvised market, to it
It is necessary to share: "roof" - the president! Is in Ingushetia so
The named presidential tax. If to believe sellers, from 10
Roubles this tax eats eight.
One of the largest canneries in village May it is simple
It is plundered, costs. Oil deposits somehow drudge. And,
Perhaps, today oil brings to republic of more troubles, than the income.
Rightfully it is possible to declare Malgobeksky area a zone
Disasters. Long-term oil extracting has led to that Tersky
The ridge slowly - but all faster - collapses every year.
Together with villages and villages.
The matter is that by rules in the fulfilled deposit
Follows zakachivat water. For the time being this rule
It was observed. And here now in the blank emptiness settle mountains. At
People in Malgobeksky area, except agriculture,
There are no sources of the income. Pension on a family in some
The person - 500 - 800 roubles, and that pay at the wrong time.
It is possible, the truth to receive indemnification for repatriation of 44th year.
The sum simply mad: 8349. Roubles, not dollars! Turn
Lasts for years. But also even when it has approached, money to receive
Very difficult: in local branch BIN-BANK means are not present. Though...
Persons included in a waiting list said, that if to pay in bank branch
"A voluntary payment" - one and a half thousand roubles - indemnification sum
Will be instantly! But one and a half thousand at anybody are not present...
The prices for all - wild. An earth hundred part - from 500 dollars, most
plohonkaja a flat in "hrushchobe" without hot water - a minimum
Four thousand.
And the Ingush nation in the meantime slowly, but correctly dies out. And
Business not only in related marriages, but also in ecology. In
Large families usually at once some children - invalids.
Weak-mindedness, physical and psychological underdevelopment - here
Incomplete "bouquet" of illnesses of the future of republic.
And to that to be surprised? In the same Malgobeksky area have spent water.
Ostensibly - from an artesian chink. Cattle it to drink refuses.
- it is necessary people: they reasonable...
Ourselves not the local.
By words major general Valery Petrovicha Kuksa, heads of the Ministry of Emergency Measures
Ingushetia, today in republic territory is nearby 140
Thousand refugees from the Chechen Republic and the Suburb. It is possible for the general
To believe: it works here five years, since times of the first
The Chechen war.
On the maintenance of refugees money stands out. 15 roubles a day on
A food and from 8 to 20 roubles a day - on residing. As people
Eat, it is not clear: the long loaf of badly baked bread here costs 2,5
- 3 roubles. On remained 12 it is necessary to eat all the day.
Residing of refugees - a separate kind of business. Many Ingushs under
Shelters have adapted... korovniki, the blessing that the cattle is now grazed
On fresh air. That is why mood in different camps a miscellaneous...
In camp "Bart" ("Consent") mood peace. Here have managed
To construct an own world. For children have organised certain
Similarity of a kindergarten. In tent postlany carpets, lay toys.
Chechen children learn how to distinguish dangerous subjects from harmless,
To survive.
Here children even draw. Drawings of year prescription: planes with
Red stars bomb, tanks with red stars shoot... In
This August a subject number one - the house. The house, in the Chechen village.
Peace, not destroyed, with colours at a porch. It draw and
Boys, and girls. They very much would like home.
Absolutely other mood in Sunzhensky area.
Camp "Northern" - two trains at spurs
Sunzhensky ridge. 80 cars with reserved seats, about four thousand
Refugees.
Over mountains in the sky smokes - black, from oil rise
Chinks, and white, from burning villages. People daily see, how burn
Their houses. Therefore mood a little bit other.
Having learnt, that with us - the American journalists, one of Chechens
Has lost composure:
- You write, that that now occurs in the Chechen Republic, on 99
Percent your Bill Clinton is guilty! It it has given vent to Russian
To fascists, it it could enter here "blue helmets" and has not entered!
The angered woman ottirajut shoulders far away...
To tell the truth, to conduct political information lessons here somehow not
It would be desirable, Who would not be desirable to argue on a subject "the first is guilty?".
And what it is possible to explain to these people?
At Maliki Babaevoj in Grozny the son was gone. Then she has learnt - it
Hold in a cellar of a commandant's office October ROVD, near to
The areas Minute. 23-year-old Ruslana beat sticks on stupnjam, on
Some hours suspended on a rack, needles stuck between
Fingers. Demanded recognitions, that he the insurgent and prepared acts of terrorism.
Or participated in their fulfilment.
Mother went there every day, brought meal and cigarettes. Then
Has already learnt from Ruslana, that transfer has got to it once - two
Packs of cigarettes. All the rest was gone. Some times prisoners
Left without water: they drank urine each other. Then Malike
Have hinted, that the son can release - for one thousand dollars. Not
I know, how it has collected this money. Probably, those have helped also who
Really is insurgents. But Ruslan has been released.
Now it cannot to communicate with anybody - is afraid, that it again
Will seize.
At Maliki there are also other children:
- My daughter, Selita, to it of 7 years, speaks to me: "Mum, if all
People have collected money and their distances that who is at war, war at once
Has ended "...
War are money.
Refugees are their absence.
Five years ago the federal aircraft bombed mountain village.
Explosion has dumped in a precipice of the father with the 5-year-old daughter. The father was lost:
"Was traumatised, incompatible with a life". The girl has gone mad.
The small small animal tries to stick a teeth into everything, that gets in
Its field of vision. And the field it is narrowed: one eye at the girl is not present.
Mother piously believes, that its child can be cured, there would be money.
She is a mother.
At one more my interlocutor - I will name it Magomedom - 23
April have killed the brother. 34-year-old Ruslan Abdullaev this day
Has celebrated last birthday. He followed water, when
In the street it was stopped by guys in green kerchiefs on heads
("Mercenaries", "kosynochniki" - so them name). Ruslana have got in
Empty court yard, have put to a wall and have carried a head turns from
Several automatic machines ("On a wall the stain red remains..."). A body
Have poured gasoline and have burnt. The adult guy, Magomed, telling
About it, cried:
- Everything, that I have then collected, in a bucket could be located! To me
Promised, that will get criminal case, that the guilty will find. I do not believe!
Now refugees in "Northern" are afraid, that them will send home.
Persistent hearings go, that both structures should drive away somewhere -
To release ways. And tents to refugees do not give... However, and in
Train the next winter they will not go through: heating does not work...
In kilometre - a huge camp "Companion", nearby
Ten thousand inhabitants, till 10-15 the person in one tent. Over it
Canvas city the wind carries a smell of the human
"Waste"... Boys play football...
Over camp unexpectedly appears fighting п п -8. Him meet
Whistle - it is simple so that knew the place.
And more today here played wedding. Friends to the groom "have stolen"
The bride.
... When we left, Magomed - at what mercenaries have killed
The brother, - has touched me for a sleeve and has taken aside:
- You do not think, that all of us hate Russian. Though is for
That. But I to you will tell one history... On March, 20th, when insurgents
Were pulled out from Grozny, one group blocked in the Shama-yurta.
Federal soldiers have begun village sweep. I there earned additionally at that time.
I was stopped by OMON fighters. At first too asked, whether the insurgent.
Have then believed. And, covering with itself, have deduced from village. Write down, as
Them call. The Rostov OMON, the commander at them - Sanych (it is visible,
Patronymic. - D. S), the machine gunner... I do not remember, how him called,
The blue-eyed. And the sniper - Andrey.
Children from Rostov OMONa! Magomed passes you the
Gratitude!
War behind a threshold.
That nearby - war, in Ingushetia is felt on everyone
To step. We are carried on mountain road by the reticent red driver.
Under some statements it is possible to guess, that it -
The Chechen, probably, also was at war. At last it managed to be stirred up.
Yes, the guy was at war in the first war. Saw, how from federal
Helicopters in deep gorges dumped in bags corpses of victims
The Russian soldiers: they are registered till now on missing persons.
After 96th year has tried to rise on feet. Has opened shop,
Traded in furniture, has constructed the house... All it has been carried by bombs
Past winter. It has taken out a family to Ingushetia and, as he said,
To be at war itself is not going to:
- Understand, at me a family. I am obliged to it to help - to brothers,
To parents. And those who has lost all? They up to the end will go - it to lose
There is nothing!
- And how you to Basayev concern?
The red has for a long time become silent:
- I to you so will tell: I now to it absolutely in another way
I concern, than earlier!.
On nazranskih markets the life boils. On me of special attention not
Turn: thanks to specific appearance repeatedly
Accepted for the Ingush. That is why speak without ceremony.
... At a photoworkshop two guys of years 18 - 20 miss.
It is felt, that Islam for them - not simply religion. To them
Approaches such zhivchik: low, dark, already with a grey hair. After
Traditional "saljama" conversation begins. In Russian. An essence:
When we go to Grozny? Dark term names: following days off
(19 - on August, 20th. - D. S), he prepares the admission. Someone from
The young are asked by a question: how much to the people was going to? It appears, 2 -
3 thousand will be to 23. Where they go? What for?. The Allah knows!
Perhaps, go to be at war. Anyway, the same red
The driver somehow has inertly confirmed my guess:
- Boys would like either glories, or money. Let go! And here
About two-three thousand is it said lies. Now hardly it is so much
It will be typed.
With foam at a mouth.
In the same camp of refugees "Northern" there is car N58. In him
Those who ran from Old Atagov live, the mountain village, three weeks
Back amazed with not clear illness. The person dies during
Six hours.
- The first at us two guys and the girl have suffered. To bathe
Went. Have returned - were ill...
- It is said that at you there whether razryli something, whether ostensibly
Insurgents from the local have given the form to someone?.
- There was no it of anything! Two weeks ago (in the end of July -
The beginning of August. - D. S) the federal helicopter, behind it flew by
The smoke went...
- Perhaps it sprayed that?
- Probably, sprayed. Here then all has begun. Those three in
Mozdok have taken away, blood transfusion did. The girl then all the same
Has died. Russian doctors know probably, what is it the such: to soldiers
Have distributed white bandages on the person, force to drink spirit. Though it not
Helps: Russian soldiers there too die. And in Old Atagah on
On August, 10th 13 persons have died. Now illness in New Atagi through
Argun it was threw...
- And what occurs to the diseased?
- At first the head starts to be turned, then the person swells,
Foam from a mouth goes, then dies. And the cattle dies. And fish not
Dies...
Misters military chemists! Perhaps, all the same it is possible to tell,
Than "are ill" in Old Atagah?
At parting.
Certainly, very much it would be desirable to finish this material something
The kind. For example, to tell about traditional mountain hlebosolstve
And hospitality. It - is.
But across hospitable Ingushetia it is impossible to move without
Supports someone from authoritative people. Otherwise - will steal...
Houses are enclosed by high walls, in apertures - steel gate
Three-four-metre height. On collars judge a house prosperity. In
The majority these gate are locked. As the soul is locked today
The mountaineer.
Of what he thinks today, on what hopes?
Officially Ingushetia - with Russia. But it - officially. Therefore
That the Russian Constitution here is not respected by local authorities.
Here the laws...
How there, in "to the Caucasian captive"?"We will judge you! On
To the law of mountains!. ".
In small Ingush "Switzerland", in my opinion, today
It is a lot of problems.
Vladikavkaz - Nazran - Magas - Karabulak - Sleptsovsky -
Ali-yurtas.
Dmitrys SIMEONS.
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//* an information Source: Lesprom (review), 24.08.00
//* Reg. Nom. - 1100800088.37-------------------------------------------
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