Anniversary / In sacred places.
Anniversary / In sacred places.
Pyongyang - an open city.
On the eve of a national holiday in capital of the North Korea under the task
Editions special correspondent Denis Demkin has visited. For the sake of this
Trips it had to make not one transaction with own conscience. But it
Does not regret about sodejannom.
I flied to Pyongyang as the driver of the Vladivostok motor depot #10. On most
Business I wished to deceive nobody. But at the North Korea now the difficult
Relations with foreign journalists: after death Kim Ir of their Hay in this
The country do not start up.
And consequently, filling the questionnaire in consulate, I have decided not to risk. And a deceit
It has gone right: in ten days I have received the visa and it has appeared onboard п я -134,
Carrying out flight Vladivostok - Pyongyang.
In one and a half hour of flight we have sat down at the airport of Pyongyang - huge and
Empty because the regular aircraft service at the North Korea is not present with
One country of the world. All international flights carry exclusively charter
Character (basically Chineses here fly), and internal airlines in the Country
chuchhe also does not exist at all.
Directly at a gangway we were surrounded with military men in which support we and have gone to
To zone of customs registration. Passed a stall with an invocatory inscription "Duty
free "where some bottles of an adhesive tape flaunted, French cognac,
Watch of the Chinese manufacture and book Kim Ir of Hay, fine
Published and in different languages. All - under silly high prices. But
The post of the customs control has been equipped by last word of technics.
Costed to us, having passed the control to embus (Japanese, by the way), as
The Pyongyang airport has been locked, and light in its big halls is extinguished.
Economy.
It was dark and on road. Only occasionally on the highway parties flashed beautifully
The illuminated monuments and panel with image Kim Ir of Hay. Have reached without
Incidents, short of that some times our bus
Stopped military patrols.
Have lodged us in the centre of Pyongyang, in vosemnadtsatietazhnoj to hotel
"CHhangvansan", located in the neighbourhood with the Ice palace of sports, where
The North Korean hockey command (I do not know trains with whom there it
Competes on international scene). In hotel, as well as at the airport, was
It is poorly populated: only ours turgruppa and the Chinese sports delegation
Weight-lifters. Precisely same position and in two tens others
The Pyongyang hotels. However Koreans do not lose hope of the best, and now
In the centre of Pyongyang is under construction new, huge tridtsatietazhnyj hotel in shape
Pyramids.
And here one of the legends, narrating about North Korean builders.
Once at late night on a building site where the Palace building was erected
Sciences, there was Kim Jong II. As well as all building objects in
Democratic People's Republic of Korea, palace it was erected in three changes and was almost ready to an anniversary of the leader. But
The successor remained is dissatisfied. It has instructed to build on three more floors and
To cover with their broken roof in traditional Korean style. Main
The engineer was taken aback: till a holiday of all week - not to be in time in any way, in addition
You expensive and liked head, confirmed the project. Kim Jong II not
Having listened to the end has turned and has left on the long car.
The chief engineer have replaced, have driven on building the additional army
Battalions and under a wind band a method of the high-speed storm invented
Kim Jong II, for a week have embodied its plan.
By the way to tell, vysotok in Pyongyang it is a lot of. Huge inhabited files (30
Floors yet a limit) evenings were shone by thousand windows. On first time
Makes strong impression, as all windows without curtains
(Adherents of ideas chuchhe have nothing to hide from each other).
Sobering up comes in the afternoon. If to approach more close it is possible to make out,
That from neboskrebnyh window leaves pipes of ovens-burzhuek stick out. Skyscrapers not
Are heated. Economy. And more often are disconnected. About it to me has told
One acquaintance from Russian which works in Democratic People's Republic of Korea years ten: "All these
High-rise buildings - fiction: light and water is not present all year long; in the winter there sleep in
To clothes vpovalku, are erased where it is necessary ".
So to me, it is possible to tell, has carried. I saw a rare picture -
The Pyongyang windows gasimyj light.
Day in Pyongyang began with same: about five mornings me
The marching many thousands column of townspeople, which awoke, encouraging itself
Marches, songs and the hymns glorifying a wise management, bore wreaths to
To numerous monuments and portraits Kim Ir of Hay.
So in Democratic People's Republic of Korea meet day of work. And it not a facade as it would be possible
To think, and normal care of ordinary Koreans - hours and radio at them
No, and has put too much.
The basic care of the inhabitant of the Country chuchhe - to extract meal. In Pyongyang, which,
Undoubtedly, in exclusive position, in shops I have found out only
Vodka. In a city it is impossible to see a dog or a cat - them for a long time have exterminated,
As well as pigeons. And on city parks women with the big bags wander and
Collect an edible grass and insects. Diplomats from our embassy in
Pyongyang say, that a grass and bugs go to food or on a forage of the house
Living creatures which hold directly in city apartments.
The girl-guide has explained all differently: it appears, phenjantsy now
Are without exception keen on cultivation of ornamental plants. A similar sort
For these days it was necessary to have heard plenty of explanations much - anybody after all does not want
To lose job. As job with foreigners is considered one of
The most grain as Intourists in meal nobody limits.
In the evening to our guide it became bad: it has had supper with us, and
Unusually high-calorie food was beyond the power its weaned from
A normal food to an organism.
Streets of Pyongyang are sad enough, though are pure. Yard keepers are not present - behind everyone
The townspeople fix a site of territory which it and cleans.
It is not enough cars. The few have own car - foreign
The compatriots, wished to remain on the historical native land, yes a miscellaneous
Sorts the provided public - scientists, actors, partijtsy. In the private
Using basically second-hand Japanese cars with the right wheel. And here
The party elite and functionaries of an average link prefer German and
The Japanese newest models. "Aeroflot" special flights directly with
Manufacturers them in large lots deliver to Pyongyang.
At all thus to go during dark time of days in Pyongyang very difficultly.
Streets are not shined, drivers essentially do not switch light from the distant
On near, at many stoplights and dimensional fires do not work. At last,
Very much bicyclists annoy.
Young dancers, for example, are famous for the most daring driving from
National theatre "п п п?я я п?я ". These 20-25-п п я п?п п "national the actress" drive
On deserted streets of Pyongyang in smart "Cadillacs" and "fordah",
Earned on the so-called closed performances for the party
Managements.
Behind health of party elite and the more so top management in Northern
To Korea watch more than carefully.
"Us have lifted early in the morning and have informed, that in an hour will take place off-schedule,
But very important meeting, - recollects the former worker of Central Committee VLKSM the
To trip to Pyongyang. - have brought to iron collars with the armed
Security guards and solemnly declared, that the liked has wished to meet us
The head. Through a court yard have spent in a two-storeyed building, something reminding
Country house. And in a drawing room to all of us by turns began to wipe hands not clear
Liquid. Were surprised, but to a kind have not submitted. On a smell - like spirit
Solution.
Then doors have swung open and to us there was Kim Jong II, has shaken to everyone
Hand. Then all of us have understood. Here so care about health of the leader of the nation -
Are afraid, as though have not infected with its foreign virus ".
I too have tried to organise for myself the closed performance of dancers -
In my hotel room. Vainly. The familiar Russian diplomat has explained:
"That here is not present, so it is street and hotel prostitution. Contacts of the such
Sorts with foreigners are fraught with execution ".
Still in the evenings I tried to watch TV. On all three channels goes
About same: patriotic films and transfers about a life and feats
Kim Ir Hay and the North Korean people not broken by failures. Occasionally
Show old Soviet films with Love Orlovoj.
But shifts in this area it is available. So, recently have shown a miniserial about
Spies. Only 12 series, and not new - 1972, but phenjantsy such not
Saw never, they have gone through a shock.
For those who yet has not understood, I explain: it were we "Seventeen instants
Spring ".
Last day I have made an attempt to flight - have solved independently
To wander on a city. Also has lagged behind group.
I almost have understood at once, that have got excited. 30-degree heat, 100 percent
Humidity, the slightest breeze - in general, far leaves I could not.
Some hundreds metres are literally, and I was overtaken by guides.
But to feel something I nevertheless was in time.
For me children who, having scented another's smell, did not lag behind at once were co-ordinated
Some quarters. And still I the full and washed appearance frankly
Shocked passers-by - they slowed down a step and with astonishment-is mistrustful examined
Me from a head to feet.
And these minutes I at last felt the present foreigner - and
Has understood, that has gone knowingly.
And already having come back home, has felt: after the North Korean socialist
Reserve Russia it seems unusually progressive, free and
The democratic state.
//* an information Source: the Businessman (weekly journal), 23.09.97
//* Reg. Nom. - 6070900145.14-------------------------------------------
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